And so, with a heavy heart, I left Ubud and a local taxi driver charged 250,000 IDR for the trip down south to Bingin Beach. The journey took almost 2 hours and once there, I was greeted by Wayan, a local lady who helpfully brought me to a nearby homestay. After a quick change into my bikini, I made my way to the beach and WOW. All my fears about it not living up to Ubud were allayed when I walked the couple of hundred (!) cobble stoned steps down to the sea front.
Aqua blue waters with fizzy, foaming waves crashed against the white sandy stretch of beach. The sun was beaming down from clear skies and there was no shortage of surfers to while away the hours watching! I knew then I had made the right decision to break away from Ubud, and felt incredibly lucky to have gone from a place I loved to another I was already falling in love with.
After waiting a little while for the tide to go out (it’s quite high up until about 1pm), I took refuge in a cafe and had some Balinese coffee followed by a stint of sunbathing on the white sand. A bit later I took a dip in the water to cool off, the ocean water incredibly warm and welcoming. The tide is strong though, and even just a little bit out from the shore I could feel it pulling me back and forth. Lunch was falafel wraps and juice in Kelly’s Warung on the beach (served with a soundtrack of Jack Johnson, of course. Ah, surfers.)
That night my friend Marie and I had a beautiful meal on the beach, picking a fresh snapper caught that day out of a freezer box, served grilled with green veggies and rice on the side – all for the princely sum of 110,000 IDR for two! It was absolutely gorgeous with the candles on each table, the waves crashing and then suddenly fireworks started to go off in the distance! It was incredibly romantic so perhaps slightly wasted on us, but hey we could still enjoy it!
The next day, after an early morning yoga class at the studio next to Susie’s Beach Inn, we moved on to Sticky’s Home Stay. We had stumbled upon it the day before and they had free rooms and were right on the beach. It is so lovely here and cheaper too, you can hear the waves crashing and the room looks out directly onto the ocean. Just stunning.
There’s also a little Mexican cafe called Macho Gallo right beside Sticky’s that serves delicious Jamica (a Mexican flower drink) and good coffee. It’s slightly overpriced but they have wi-fi and because of the close proximity, so did I! Muchas graaacias! A local delicacy, I later tried out ‘gado gado’ in a nearby warung. It’s a deliciously filling dish of boiled vegetables, tempeh, hard boiled egg and satay sauce, which probably sounds kind of gross come to think of it, but it was lovely!
Bingin is a surfer’s paradise and in my opinion, also a non-surfer’s paradise. I didn’t take to the waves apart from a swim here and there, and it was still a wonderfully enjoyable and relaxing few days. Thinking of it now, I can still hear the waves crashing at night, the warm breeze and the feeling of the sun on my skin…I’d go back in a heartbeat.